I use new KW points. They are made well, but still require inspection/adjustment/cleaning prior to installation. The upper cushion spring will be set to a standard gap, and the contacts will be set flush.

If you'd like to save money and use your old points, I'm happy to inspect them and let you know if it will be possible. However, sometimes old points cannot be salvaged. (And, I can't offer a warranty with used points.)  With full rebuilds, it doesn't make much sense to use old points in poor condition. They would be a weak link in the chain. 

Point gaps are set at .030" as a baseline. However, this is not a critical measurement and can change slightly during the tuning process. 

Using the correct capacitor is crucial in rebuilding the Model T ignition coil. I only use the ones supplied by certain Model T parts suppliers (Langs, Fun Projects, & others). They have the proper dV/dT rating and I will not use any other.

When installing new capacitors I always make good, solid mechanical wire connections prior to soldering. This, combined with fresh tar, will help keep the internal wire connections tight and operational for years to come.

Most of the time, the existing hardware is perfectly fine to reuse. I will remove any corrosion, lightly clean them, and always clean the top posts for good conductivity and appearance. I also install new fiber washers below the upper point bridge.

If you'd prefer all new BRASS hardware, that's perfectly fine, but it will add to the cost of your service by about $6.50 per coil.

Because the modern capacitors are thin enough to fit between the original glass insulator and the side wall of the coil box, I leave the glass insulators in place whenever possible.  

Oftentimes the wood panels near the capacitors have become loose over time. If this is the case I will re-glue the joints and press fit them for a secure bond.

I have two options here;

1. Leave your coils pretty much as-is, no conditioning or finishing whatsoever. Au Naturel!
2. Clean the wood and treat with boiled linseed oil. This rehydrates the wood, brings out the color of the wood, and leaves a nice, flat appearance. Paint the tops black (w/ non-conductive paint).

*See the pictures below

The tar inside a Model T ignition coil serves more than one purpose. It keeps things in place and lessens the effect of vibration. It also protects the internals from moisture and corrosion. Therefore, I re-pot all of my coils with tar - just like Henry did. It is a bit time consuming (and sometimes messy) but I believe it is a critical step in coil rebuilding.

The Hand Cranked Coil Tester (HCCT) is a wonderful device created during the Model T era. There were many different brands and configurations, but they were all similar in operation. **The HCCT in the picture above is made by the Allen company and is my personal unit that I restored. Click here for pics and info on the restoration.

It uses an actual Ford Model T flywheel and magneto ring. But, instead of an engine spinning it around, you grab the handle and turn it by hand. It was much more precise than the "buzz boxes" of the day, and is in fact still used successfully today. The downside? They are heavy, non-portable, hard to find, and kind of expensive. 

Click here to view pictures of My Allen HCCT Restoration Project

Devices like the one above were a definite step up from the simple buzz box, and can be quite fun to play with! This Servwell is another one of my personal treasures. It tests coil current amperage, spark plug function, demonstrates the actual electric current as it arcs between two prongs (don't touch!), and also tests light bulbs - single and double filament. 

Is it cool? Absolutely! Is it a good way to tune coils? Not really. It's just not very accurate. But, I admit you could certainly get your coils in the proper current range with it. And, that's exactly what they did. Good enough was good enough. Technology was still in its infancy ...

Fast forward about 100 years and we have the Strobo-Spark! This 21st century creation is a fantastic machine and brings more precision to setting the current draw of the Model T coil. It essentially functions like a HCCT but has the advantage of being portable. It is small, lightweight, and conveniently plugs into your a/c outlet.

 It tests for capacitor health and function, displays actual sparks in the window (single, double, triple), and measures current draw amperage. It also operates at a simulated RPM of about 450 to better emulate real driving conditions. Folks have been successfully using these machines for years now. Visit Fun Projects.com for more information on the Strobo-Spark.

"Dwell Time to Fire - The time required for the coil to build up current sufficient to pull open the points causing the spark plug to fire a spark." 

This, rather than current draw, is how the ECCT tunes coils. It is a fundamental change from all previous coil testing devices, and is the brilliant creation of Mr. Mike Kossor.

Visit ModelTECCT.com for more information.

From ModelTECCT.com; "Engine performance depends on ignition timing not coil current so ECCT coil adjustment is done by accurately  measuring coil dwell time to fire spark, not coil current.  Each coil can be precisely adjusted to fire a single hot spark with equal dwell time to fire.  This guarantees no double sparking and minimizes coil to coil (cylinder to cylinder) timing variation to achieve optimal engine performance. There simply is no reason to settle for approximate current based adjusting techniques today like the HCCT to adjust Model T coils."

For those that have a strong preference, I will tune your coils with either the ECCT or the Strobo-Spark/HCCT. However, my default device is the ECCT.

This decision was based strictly on first-hand-witness-coils-in-the-car-engine-performance. My set of Strobo-Spark-tuned coils made my T run well. No question. But, after tuning the same set on the ECCT, my T ran significantly better. It's as simple as that. I experienced more power and better acceleration in both low and high gear. The engine ran smoother and yielded a higher top speed. Friends and customers have reported similar experiences.

Because the methodology is different, traditionally current-tuned coils might not "look" good when diagnosed in the ECCT ... likewise, ECCT-tuned coils might not "look" good when diagnosed in the other devices. It's like comparing apples to watermelons. Don't bother with this. The only real test is to try them in your car. 

*No matter which device I use, I will stand behind my work. If you are unhappy with their performance, I will re-tune them on the other device at my cost.

If I had to pick my favorite T ... this might be it (although it's a close call with the 23). She's such a good runner and has a wonderfully aged look and feel. 

This was my first T, and my "learning" car. Unfortunately, the motor failed shortly after I bought it. Since then, the motor and trans have been completely rebuilt ... I installed a Scat counterweighted crank, along with other internal goodies. I've also had to repair just about every other part of this car. As a result, I owe much of my T knowledge to this car.

This is a recent purchase. It found it locally and just couldn't pass it up. When I bought it the engine was stuck and nothing worked. But, with some hard work, I was able to get it back to driving condition. If you've never seen these old Fordsons, do yourself a favor and check them out. In my opinion, they are sort of the missing link between the Model T and the later Ford tractors. Pretty cool machines! **Note; it also runs on Model T ignition coils.

This is a no-frills TT. She runs and drives like my other cars ... she just goes much, much slower with its worm-gear rear end. It has taller gears installed for driving and has a TT Ruckstell axle for low-gear use. 

I use this truck for actual work whenever I can. After all, that's what it was meant to do!

This is a great old tractor. She runs very well. I actually use it on my property to brush hog, scrape, pull, etc. I also found this one locally. I especially like it because it has never been modified. It still wears its natural grey and is still 6 volt. If you need to do any serious work with them, they lack a little in horsepower. However, she works very well for "normal" use. It starts up every time and is a pleasure to drive! Its name is "Lulabelle 2" in memory of my Grandfather.

"Lulabelle"