The winner will get one set of their own Model T ignition coils (1914-1927 style) completely rebuilt, tuned, and mailed back at NO CHARGE. Those coils will receive NEW capacitors, NEW tar, and NEW KW points, including minor wood repair and oil treatment. The coils will be fine-tuned for optimal performance and thoroughly bench tested before returning. *My go-to device is the ECCT, but I will also tune via the Strobo-Spark or HCCT upon request ... winner's prerogative.
The cost to enter the raffle is $3 USD. You may enter as many times as you'd like to increase your chances of winning. ONLY ONE winning entry will be drawn. This prize is valued at $175. **Any and all monies collected above $175 will be donated directly to the MTFCA.**
*Rules; the coils must be the 1914-1927 style. The coils must be rebuildable (if you are unsure about this, contact me). The winner will be responsible for shipping the coils to me. Otherwise, there will be NO CHARGE. If the winner resides outside the continental US, they will be responsible for return shipping costs.
CLICK ABOVE TO ENTER and GOOD LUCK!
Don't underestimate the benefits of healthy, well-adjusted coils! A strong, consistent, well-timed, single spark will promote easier starting, a stronger running motor, and even more frequent "free" starts ...
Each coil will be diagnosed individually, and each set will be tuned equally. From complete rebuilds (including new capacitors, repotting with tar, new points, new hardware, wood repair, and wood conditioning) to simple adjustments. It's all up to you.
I understand people have different applications - from show cars to speedsters to drivers. I will tell you what your coils NEED. You tell me what you WANT! Use your old hardware? No problem. Try to save your old points? No guarantees, but I'll try. Leave your wood unfinished and dirty. You got it.
Although woodwork is not my specialty, I have three basic wood finishing options to choose from.
Coil work is usually straight-forward, but their age & condition do sometimes present challenges. I will contact you with any unexpected issues, and be honest with you from start to finish. My work is guaranteed for one year. Also, repeat customers (2 or more set rebuilds) may send their coils back periodically for a free check-up. Just pay for shipping!
Contact me for a service estimate. (I usually have complete sets for sale as well.)
Check your shelves! I will consider buying them from you, depending on their condition. Customers sometimes do this to offset the costs of rebuilding their good sets.
Here's a general idea of what I will pay for old coils (and a brief coil history lesson). The prices are shown as untested / tested and rebuildable; *if there are no points on the coils, the price will be slightly less.
1913 - 1915 6-screw brass top coils - $10/$20
1916 - 1917 4-screw brass top coils - $10/$20
1916 - 1918 black fiber-cased coils (I'm not interested in these but wanted to include them in the timeline for the coil history)
1917 - 1919 wood top coils with NO manufacture markings on the boxes - $5/$10
1919 - 1923 wood top coils with the "Ford" script burned in the side of the box - $5/$10
1920 - 1922 "Tractor Unit" coils were made with larger capacitors, heavy duty points, and tar with a higher flash point, can be used on cars too - $5/$10
1923 - 1927 wood top coils with the "Ford" script stamped on the upper edge of the box - $5/$12
*Aftermarket Genuine-stamped KW coils - $5/$15
Approximate dates of manufacture ...
I use new KW points. They are made pretty well, but still require inspection/adjustment/cleaning prior to installation. The upper cushion spring will be set to a standard gap, and the contacts will be set flush.
If you'd like to save money and use your old points, I'm happy to inspect them and let you know if it will be possible. However, sometimes old points cannot be salvaged. (And, I can't offer a warranty with used points.) With full rebuilds, it doesn't make much sense to use old points in poor condition. They would be a weak link in the chain.
Point gaps are set at .030" as a baseline. However, this is not a critical measurement and can change slightly during the tuning process.
Using the correct capacitor is crucial in rebuilding the Model T ignition coil. I only use the ones supplied by certain Model T parts suppliers (Langs, Fun Projects, & others). They have the proper dV/dT rating and I will not use any other.
When installing new capacitors I always make good, solid mechanical wire connections prior to soldering. This, combined with fresh tar, will help keep the internal wire connections tight and operational for years to come.
Most of the time, the existing hardware is perfectly fine to reuse. I will remove any corrosion, lightly clean them, and always clean the top posts for good conductivity and appearance. I also install new fiber washers below the upper point bridge.
If you'd prefer all new hardware, that's perfectly fine, but it will add to the cost of your service by about $6.50 per coil.
Because the modern capacitors are thin enough to fit between the original glass insulator and the side wall of the coil box, I leave the glass insulators in place whenever possible.
Oftentimes the wood panels near the capacitors have become loose over time. If this is the case I will re-glue the joints and press fit them for a secure bond.
I have three options here;
*See the pictures below
The tar inside a Model T ignition coil serves more than one purpose. It keeps things in place and lessens the effect of vibration. It also protects the internals from moisture and corrosion. Therefore, I re-pot all of my coils with tar - just like Henry did. It is a bit time consuming (and sometimes messy) but I believe it is a critical step in coil rebuilding.
The Hand Cranked Coil Tester (HCCT) is a wonderful device created during the Model T era. There were many different brands and configurations, but they were all similar in design. **The HCCT in the picture above is made by the Allen company and is my personal unit that I restored. Click here for pics and info on the restoration.
It uses an actual Ford Model T flywheel and magneto ring. But, instead of an engine spinning it around, you grab the handle and turned it by hand. It was much more precise than the "buzz boxes" of the day, and is in fact still used successfully today by many people. The downside? They are heavy, non-portable, hard to find, and kind of expensive.
Click here to view pictures of My Allen HCCT Restoration Project
Devices like the one ahove were a definite step up from the simple buzz box, and can be quite fun to play with! This Servwell is another one of my personal treasures. It tests coil current amperage, spark plug function, demonstrates the actual electric current as it arcs between two prongs (don't touch!), and also tests light bulbs - single and double filament.
Is it cool? Absolutely! Is it a good way to tune coils? Not really. It's just not very accurate. But, I admit you could certainly get your coils in the proper current range with it. And, that's exactly what they did. Good enough was good enough. Technology was still in its infancy ...
Fast forward about 100 years and we have the Strobo-Spark! It is a 21st century creation by Mr. John Regan, formerly the owner of Fun Projects. It is a fantastic machine and brings more precision to setting the current draw of the Model T coil. It essentially functions like an HCCT but has the advantage of being portable. It is small, lightweight, and conveniently plugs into your a/c outlet.
It tests for capacitor health and function, displays actual sparks in the window (single, double, triple), and measures current draw amperage. It also operates at a simulated RPM of about 450 to better emulate real driving conditions. Folks have been successfully using these machines for years now. Visit Fun Projects.com for more information on the Strobo-Spark.
"Dwell Time to Fire - The time required for the coil to build up current sufficient to pull open the points causing the spark plug to fire a spark."
This, rather than current draw, is how the ECCT tunes coils. It is a fundamental change from all previous coil testing devices, and is the brilliant creation of Mr. Mike Kossor.
Visit ModelTECCT.com for more information.
From ModelTECCT.com; "Engine performance depends on ignition timing not coil current so ECCT coil adjustment is done by accurately measuring coil dwell time to fire spark, not coil current. Each coil can be precisely adjusted to fire a single hot spark with equal dwell time to fire. This guarantees no double sparking and minimizes coil to coil (cylinder to cylinder) timing variation to achieve optimal engine performance. There simply is no reason to settle for approximate current based adjusting techniques today like the HCCT to adjust Model T coils."
For those that have a strong preference, I will tune your coils with either the ECCT or the Strobo-Spark/HCCT. However, my default device is the ECCT.
This decision was based strictly on first-hand-witness-coils-in-the-car-engine-performance. My set of Strobo-Spark-tuned coils made my T run well. No question. But, after tuning the same set on the ECCT, my T ran significantly better. It's as simple as that. I experienced more power and better acceleration in both low and high gear. The engine ran smoother and yielded a higher top speed. Friends and customers have reported similar experiences.
Because the methodology is different, traditionally current-tuned coils might not "look" good when diagnosed in the ECCT ... likewise, ECCT-tuned coils might not "look" good when diagnosed in the other devices. It's like comparing apples to oranges. Don't bother with this. The only real test is to try them in your car.
*No matter which device I use, I will stand behind my work. If you are unhappy with their performance, I will re-tune them on the other device at my cost.
I will diagnose your coils, clean the wood, oil the wood (and finish the wood with a clear coat if requested), repair the boxes to the extent possible, paint the tops black, clean the contacts, clean the posts, dig out the old capacitors, solder in new capacitors, repot the boxes with hot tar, use new brads in the doors, install new points, tune the coils, and test them thoroughly on the bench before mailing.
So, complete rebuilds are $38.75 per coil ($155 for 1 set of 4). **The cores you send me must be rebuildable. If you don’t have good cores, I can sell you individual rebuilt coils for $65 if I have them in stock.
Return shipping is $20 for 4 coils. (for any other number of coils, just ask me for a shipping quote.)
Just pay $20 for return shipping and I'll give you a complete diagnosis, FREE of CHARGE.
*Not all rebuild jobs are the same. I will work with you depending on what you need, and we'll come up with a price that we both agree on.
And, when your finished coils arrive in the mail, take them straight from the box, put them in your car, and enjoy!
This is a set of real survivor brass top coils. Not repops. (FYI; coils of this era did NOT have the Ford script). These have been completely rebuilt, tuned, and are in excellent condition given their age. New capacitors, new tar, wood conditioned and finished with 3 protective gloss coats, top hardware is a mix of new and old brass, brass top plates have all been polished. By purchasing, you accept their cosmetic condition. These aren't just for looks. They're ready to run! I should keep these for myself, but there might be somebody out there who needs them more than I. One year warranty is included as long as they aren't tampered with in any way.
Tuned using the ECCT and its Professional Features Software.
*Shipping (AND INSURANCE) included in price to lower 48 contiguous US states. Ask for shipping quotes to other locations prior to purchasing.
*NO core charge
For sale is one set of completely rebuilt KW coils. NEW capacitors, NEW tar, New KW points, wood repair and prep. The boxes are not perfect. None of them are. By purchasing, you accept their aesthetic appearance. And, you get one faded RED one at no extra charge :).
Fine tuned with the ECCT and its Professional Features Software, and thoroughly bench tested. This set is ready to drop in and go! A one-year warranty is included as long as they aren't tampered with in any way.
*Shipping (AND INSURANCE) included in price to lower 48 contiguous US states. Ask for shipping quotes to other locations prior to purchasing.
*NO core charge.
I am a recently retired federal Air Traffic Controller. I worked for almost 29 years at a major facility in Southern California. It was a great job, but its pervasive stress tends to take a toll on the body and mind. I didn't think so when I was younger. : ) Anyway, it's time to ease the stress, cleanse the soul, and lighten the spirit! Now more than ever I am realizing that life is short, and I intend to make the most of it ... time to focus on things that make me happy. So, I will be devoting even more time to rebuilding coils while continuing to enjoy the Model T hobby.
*On a side note; my maternal grandfather actually worked for Ford. He started around 1939 at Ford Farms, then quickly transitioned to the Ford Motor Company and found his home. He became a foreman (not sure what department), and ended up spending his entire career at the FMC. The rest of his life he refused to by any automobile that was NOT a Ford.
For those of you who have never attempted to rebuild a Model T ignition coil, let me tell you ... it can be tedious and sometimes frustrating work. The going rates for coil services these days seem pretty darned reasonable to me, given the amount of labor required. My advice is this; if you find somebody who knows what they are doing and is willing to rebuild your coils at a reasonable price, jump on it. Even if it's not me. They've got the equipment and the experience. Pay them. It is well worth it. For example; a $6,000 freshly rebuilt motor with all the goodies won't run worth a darn without a good set of coils. Invest in them. Spend another $150 - $300 to either have your set rebuilt or buy a set outright. They are a necessary piece to the puzzle.
Enjoy those Ts,
MTFCA, The Model T Ford Club of America - "The world's largest Model T Ford Club"
If you're an owner or enthusiast you need to frequent this site.
KMW Ford Antique Engine Service - Engine Rebuilding specialist, Ed Katzorke. "Serving the needs of the Model T or Model A owner."
You will be happy you chose Katzorke!
Chaffin's Garage - Model T Ford Parts
Quality parts, fast shipping, and knowledgable customer service.
Lang's Old Car Parts - Model T Ford Parts
Quality parts, fast shipping, an easy-to-navigate online shopping experience, and knowledgable customer service.
I-Timer - The ideal timer for the Model T.
ECCT - "The new standard for Model T coil testing"
Don't be turned off by new technology. Mike takes coil tuning to the next level.
Mitch Taylor's web site - "For Model T owners & enthusiasts"
Mitch continues to contribute to the hobby, and his web site is full of good information.
Fun Projects - "Antique car parts for Ford Model T, Model A, V8 and Tractors"
Quality parts, some of which you can't get anywhere else.
Orange County Model T Club - is a chapter of the Model T Ford Club of America. Founded in December 1958, Incorporated in California on April 29, 1960. The Club is dedicated to the restoration and preservation of the Model T Ford.
Long Beach Model T Club - Founded in Long Beach, California in October 1954, the Long Beach Model T Club is dedicated to preserving and maintaining Model T Ford vehicles of ancient age and historical value. The Club also serves as an accurate and technical source of information concerning such vehicles for the benefit of its members and the general public
*Use the contact form below if you'd like to add your site to this page.