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*This website is closed and under reconstruction *
** questions email at ben@modeltcoils.com
*This website is closed and under reconstruction *
** questions email at ben@modeltcoils.com
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** questions email at ben@modeltcoils.com
** questions email at ben@modeltcoils.com
Don't underestimate the benefits of healthy, well-adjusted coils! A strong, consistent, well-timed spark will promote easier starting, a stronger/smoother running motor, and even more frequent "free" starts ...
Each coil will be evaluated and diagnosed before I begin any work. Complete rebuilds, simple adjustments, and everything in between. This is where I start.
I understand people have different applications - from show cars to speedsters to drivers. I will tell you what services your coils need to function their best, then you tell me how you would like to proceed. Leave your wood unfinished and dirty? You got it. Install new points only? Sure. Try to save your old points? No guarantees, but I'll try. *Note; I cannot offer a warranty with used points.
Coil work is usually straight-forward, but their age & condition do sometimes present surprises. I will contact you with any unexpected issues, and be honest with you from start to finish. My work is guaranteed for one year.
Also, repeat customers (2 or more set rebuilds) may send their coils back periodically for a free check-up. Just pay for shipping!
Contact me for a service estimate. (I usually have complete sets for sale as well.)
- Thank you for the support -
When we encounter a dead coil with bad secondary windings we usually just set it aside and choose a different one to rebuild. There are still plenty of good cores available. However, we sometimes have dead coils that are special in some way. Maybe they came with the car. Maybe they have sentimental value. Maybe they are later coils that were custom made to fit your early coil box. Maybe they're just a nice set of metal tops that you don't want to break up.
Replacing windings can be tricky business, but I will do so upon special request. *Note; I am referring to post-1913 coils only. I will not work on the early boxes. You must provide good donor coils AND the boxes you want saved must be in good condition. The price to "transplant" primary/secondary windings will depend on the time involved. Each transplant will be evaluated individually so we can come up with a fair price we both agree on.
Check your shelves! I will consider buying them from you, depending on their condition. Customers sometimes do this to offset the costs of rebuilding their good sets.
Here's a general idea of what I will pay for old coils (and a brief coil history lesson). The prices are shown as untested / tested and rebuildable; *if there are no points/hardware on the coils, the price will be slightly less. Overall condition is also a determining factor.
1913 - 1915 6-screw brass top coils - $5/$20
1916 - 1917 4-screw brass top coils - $5/$20
1916 - 1918 black fiber-cased coils (I'm not interested in these but wanted to include them in the timeline for the coil history)
1917 - 1919 wood top coils with NO manufacture markings on the boxes - $5/$10
1919 - 1923 wood top coils with the "Ford" script burned in the side of the box - $5/$10
1920 - 1922 "Tractor Unit" coils were made with larger capacitors, heavy duty points, and tar with a higher flash point, can be used on cars too - $5/$10
1923 - 1927 wood top coils with the "Ford" script stamped on the upper edge of the box - $5/$15
*Aftermarket Genuine-stamped KW coils - $5/$15
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Approximate dates of manufacture ...
I use new KW points. They are made well, but still require inspection/adjustment/cleaning prior to installation. The upper cushion spring will be set to a standard gap, and the contacts will be set flush.
If you'd like to save money and use your old points, I'm happy to inspect them and let you know if it will be possible. However, sometimes old points cannot be salvaged. (And, I can't offer a warranty with used points.) With full rebuilds, it doesn't make much sense to use old points in poor condition. They would be a weak link in the chain.
Point gaps are set at .030" as a baseline. However, this is not a critical measurement and can change slightly during the tuning process.
Using the correct capacitor is crucial in rebuilding the Model T ignition coil. I only use the ones supplied by certain Model T parts suppliers (Langs, Fun Projects, & others). They have the proper dV/dT rating and I will not use any other.
When installing new capacitors I always make good, solid mechanical wire connections prior to soldering. This, combined with fresh tar, will help keep the internal wire connections tight and operational for years to come.
Most of the time, the existing hardware is perfectly fine to reuse. I will remove any corrosion, lightly clean them, and always clean the top posts for good conductivity and appearance. I also install new fiber washers below the upper point bridge.
If you'd prefer all new BRASS hardware, that's perfectly fine, but it will add to the cost of your service by about $6.50 per coil.
Because the modern capacitors are thin enough to fit between the original glass insulator and the side wall of the coil box, I leave the glass insulators in place whenever possible.
Oftentimes the wood panels near the capacitors have become loose over time. If this is the case I will re-glue the joints and press fit them for a secure bond.
I have two options here;
*See the pictures below
The tar inside a Model T ignition coil serves more than one purpose. It keeps things in place and lessens the effect of vibration. It also protects the internals from moisture and corrosion. Therefore, I re-pot all of my coils with tar - just like Henry did. It is a bit time consuming (and sometimes messy) but I believe it is a critical step in coil rebuilding.
The Hand Cranked Coil Tester (HCCT) is a wonderful device created during the Model T era. There were many different brands and configurations, but they were all similar in operation. **The HCCT in the picture above is made by the Allen company and is my personal unit that I restored. Click here for pics and info on the restoration.
It uses an actual Ford Model T flywheel and magneto ring. But, instead of an engine spinning it around, you grab the handle and turn it by hand. It was much more precise than the "buzz boxes" of the day, and is in fact still used successfully today. The downside? They are heavy, non-portable, hard to find, and kind of expensive.
Click here to view pictures of My Allen HCCT Restoration Project
Fast forward about 100 years and we have the Strobo-Spark! This 21st century creation is a fantastic machine and brings more precision to setting the current draw of the Model T coil. It essentially functions like a HCCT but has the advantage of being portable. It is small, lightweight, and conveniently plugs into your a/c outlet.
It tests for capacitor health and function, displays actual sparks in the window (single, double, triple), and measures current draw amperage. It also operates at a simulated RPM of about 450 to better emulate real driving conditions. Folks have been successfully using these machines for years now.
"Dwell Time to Fire - The time required for the coil to build up current sufficient to pull open the points causing the spark plug to fire a spark."
This, rather than current draw, is how the ECCT tunes coils. It is a fundamental change from all previous coil testing devices, and is the brilliant creation of Mr. Mike Kossor.
Visit ModelTECCT.com for more information.
From ModelTECCT.com; "Engine performance depends on ignition timing not coil current so ECCT coil adjustment is done by accurately measuring coil dwell time to fire spark, not coil current. Each coil can be precisely adjusted to fire a single hot spark with equal dwell time to fire. This guarantees no double sparking and minimizes coil to coil (cylinder to cylinder) timing variation to achieve optimal engine performance. There simply is no reason to settle for approximate current based adjusting techniques today like the HCCT to adjust Model T coils."
I will diagnose your coils, clean the wood, oil the wood, repair the boxes to the extent possible, paint the tops black with non-conductive paint, clean the contacts, clean the posts, dig out the old capacitors, solder in new capacitors, repot the boxes with hot tar, install new brads in the doors, install new KW points, tune the coils, and test them thoroughly on the bench before mailing. **PLEASE NOTE; I WILL NOT WORK ON THE AFTERMARKET BLACK PLASTIC-CASED COILS or THE GENERIC COILS OF THIS TYPE**
Just pay $24 for return shipping and I'll give you a complete diagnosis, FREE of CHARGE.
*Not all rebuild jobs are the same. I will work with you depending on what you need, and we'll come up with a price that we both agree on.
And, when your finished coils arrive in the mail, take them straight from the box, put them in your car, and enjoy!
Some hit and miss engines run on Model T Ford ignition coils. I am now offering coils for the hit and miss community. If you need posts or clips soldered onto the contacts, that will be up to you. These will be completely rebuilt, adjusted, tuned, functional, and ready to run. Like my other coils, I guarantee my work for one year.
*Note; These sales will depend on my inventory at any given time. Also, I will not work on/rebuild any other style or manufacturers’ ignition coil. ONLY Model T Ford/KW coils.
You can order a custom-made complete set at any time and I will build them just for you. Of course this depends on my inventory at the time. Prices usually range from $270 to $330 depending on the style/condition of the boxes (metal tops will be more). Don't forget to add $24 for return shipping.
**Note; if you have good cores to exchange, you will be credited depending on their condition and make/year of manufacture.
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